Woman This Month - October 2011

woman this month OCTOBER 2011 ı A/W 2011 fashion ı www.womanthismonth.com home subscribers copy ISSUE 104 Bahrain Edition BEAUTY | FASHION | HOME | WELLBEING | PARENTING | LOCAL ISSUES OCTOBER 2011 | Issue 104 We’re all Equal Feminist Islam Autumn/ Winter 2011 They Key Trends Food Tourism Yummy Destinations Tea-Licious Tastes Herbal Health Benefits Think Pink! Breast Cancer Awareness Month www.womanthismonth.com

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2 | October 2011 | woman this month 8 54 10 58 48 contents | OCTOBER 2011 Features 8 Know Your Rights: Women and Islam 44 Lend Support: Breast Cancer Awareness Fashion 11 Feature Prints: The More Colour the Better! 15 Fetish Fantasy: A Walk on the Dark Side 19 Country Walks: Rambling in Style 23 Arresting Androgyny: Reclaiming Tailoring from the Boys 27 Dreamy Victoriana: This Season’s Softest Look 31 Fabulous Fur: A Taste of Luxury Beauty 38 News: October’s Best Products 40 20 Tips: Autumn/Winter Beauty 42 Fragrances: A Fresh Start Wellbeing 46 Campaign: Post-Natal Depression 48 Feature: Tea Time! Regulars 6 Write Here, Write Now 58 Travel: A Foodie’s Delight 60 Recipes: Herbal Magic 64 Columnist: London’s Burning OCTOBER 2011, issue 104 House of Fraser have got Autumn/Winter in the bag! More inside… Bahrain Edition #&"65: ] '"4)*0/ ] )0.& ] 8&--#&*/( ] 1"3&/5*/( ] -0$"- *446&4 0$50#&3 ] *TTVF 8FµSF BMM &RVBM 'FNJOJTU *TMBN 'PPE 5PVSJTN :VNNZ %FTUJOBUJPOT 5FB -JDJPVT 5BTUFT )FSCBM )FBMUI #FOFGJUT "VUVNO 8JOUFS 5IFZ ,FZ 5SFOET 5IJOL 1JOL #SFBTU $BODFS "XBSFOFTT .POUI www.womanthismonth.com 11 27

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4 | October 2011 | woman this month Welcome EDITOR's letter This issue is all about us women getting together, supporting each other and pulling ourselves firmly to the frontline of 21st century thinking. We have a controversial, but insightful interview with leading feminist thinker Dr Margot Badran. She takes us through her view of the Qur’an and shows us the basis for egalitarianism in modern Islam. If that isn’t enough to make you plump for female solidarity, we’ve also got a great interview with Julie Sprakel, founder of Bahrain’s national breast cancer charity Think Pink. It’s breast cancer awareness month this October, so Julie is on a mission to make sure that we do everything we can to raise money and give support to those who need it. And of course, we can’t be serious all the time! If it’s fashion you’re looking for, it’s fashion you are going to get. This is also our big Autumn/Winter issue. We take you through six of the key trends for the coming season and offer you a brilliant array of style and beauty tips. So there’s no excuse for shabby dressing throughout October! Women, throughout the ages, have struggled to reconcile our love of aesthetics, passion for beauty products and lust for the latest threads with our need to be recognised as serious, hard-working and politicised individuals. This month, let’s make an extra effort to prove to people that we really are the best at multi-tasking. Who says you can’t be a feminist icon and look good at the same time? Natasha Bird Editor For of the moment news, tips, advice and fun links, follow Woman This Month on Twitter @WomanThisMonthB responsible editor Jubran AbdulRahman chairman & publisher George F Middleton publishing director David M Robertson editorial consultant Dr Paul Balles editor NATASHA BIRD contributors Dr Claire McInroy george r vaughan James Claire dr jinan harith staff writers ALISON COLDBRIDGE Elma Bartholomew Maryam A. Toorani Wafa Ebrahim Abdulla print production manager Sabu Sebastian layout & graphics ROBYN VAN DER MERWE Dalal Al-Sabbagh RomEO San Miguel media coordinator sushmita chakraborty media executives ESKY Girmay SHANI DAVEL sales manager Mayukh Majumdar circulation FAWAZ AL BALOOSHI photography editor anil Ravi Shankar photographers Shankar Kunhambu Subeesh Kumar NS printing press Union Press, Bahrain Contents copyrighted 2004© Reproduction in whole or in part by any means without the express written consent of the publisher is prohibited. ISBN No: 1 899348 11 5. Licensed by the Ministry of Information, Directorate of Publication and Press. Code: SWTM 410 woman this month is for women in Bahrain wishing to celebrate a unique cosmopolitan lifestyle and community spirit in an objective and proactive manner. For subscriptions visit www.womanthismonth.com Advertising rates are available upon request. Please e-mail [email protected]. The publication of any advertisement in woman this month is not necessarily an endorsement of the advertiser or of the products or services advertised. Although every effort is made to ensure factual information, woman this month cannot be held responsible for errors in contributors’ material, nor do the opinions expressed by individual writers necessarily reflect the opinions of the publisher. editorial Submission of articles is welcome. Send queries, letters and articles to the editor at the address below. The publisher reserves the right to edit, reject or comment editorially on all material contributed. bahrain office address Red House Marketing p.o. box: 20461, Manama, Kingdom of Bahrain telephone: (17) 813-777 fax: (17) 813-700 email: [email protected] website: www.womanthismonth.com published monthly by Red House Marketing (Jersey) Ltd. P. O. Box 641, No. 1 Seaton Place, St. Helier, Jersey JE4 8JJ, Channel Islands, U.K. in association with Al-Hilal Publishing, P. O. Box 224, Manama, Kingdom of Bahrain Woman This Month is a member of BPA Worldwide Themselves Sisters are Doing it For

5 woman this month | October 2011 | Social Butterfly Junaid For Perfumes Ghabga & Perfume Launch Junaid For Perfumes held their annual Ramadan Ghabga for members of the media and invited guests at the Gulf Hotel's Awal Ballroom. The event also marked the launch of the group's new fragrance 'Taariikh' Seham & Atif Nitika, Anju, Neha & Pammy Sameer & Azra Mahmood & Asif Safiya & Caillin Bousy, Aziza, Juhaina & Marah The survival rate of breast cancer can be up to 98% if detected early. Monthly breast self-examinations can save your life. A touch is all it takes. LET’S SHARE THE LIGHT. www.thinkpinkbahrain.com www.facebook.com/ThinkPinkBahrain Twitter: @ThinkPinkBH

6 | October 2011 | woman this month Letters I have to say that I was really shocked to read Natasha Bird’s interview with Marietta Dias. I had no idea that the sort of cruelty she described went on in Bahrain. I guess you never know what people are doing behind closed doors. It seems awful that people could assume that just because someone is from a different country or gets a lower wage that they could be treated in an inhumane way. I really hope that, after reading that article, many more people will be vigilant about seeking out this kind of abuse and reporting it. I also hope that officials in Bahrain will begin prosecuting the offenders. It is amazing that Marietta and her team of volunteers dedicate so much of their time to such an important cause. I wish her all the very best and hope that the situation will change. Human trafficking, slavery and unreasonable contracts and demands are all outrageous in the 21st century. Julie, by email. Star Letter The Shocking Truth Wonderland Love 19 woman this month | September 2011 | 1FPQMF "kmal Shaukat is an artist and designer who has wholly-embraced the digitisation of the modern world. He paints, he draws, he photographs, but his unique talent lies in his ability to use computer technology. His digital art and illustration displays none of the traits you might associate with computing; it is neither sterile nor stagnant, nor mathematical or limited — but flowing, unique and beautiful. A second generation Pakistani-Afghan, Akmal resides and works in the UK, but travels widely. He has been called upon, not only to show his work, but to contribute to advertising campaigns, to illustrate fiction and to provide artistic direction for some major fashion houses. His designs have also featured in several popular and niche magazines, such as 1883 Magazine and Fashion Labb. So, tell us a little bit about yourself: Akmal: My background is Pakistani-Afghan, but I was born in Bradford, in the North of England. I graduated from Bradford School of Art with a first class honours in graphic media communication in 2007 and went on to complete my master’s in visual culture. There wasn’t a particular moment when I thought: “Wow, I’m creative”. I always had a passion for art, and I began to receive very positive feedback. I didn’t choose my career; my career chose me. My passion for design and the visual arts made my career an inevitable journey. Explain your term “magical realism” to us: I provide extreme realism to mundane subject matter. This means that, rather than simply looking at the surface of a person, object or concept, I unwrap the levels of mystery to look at the core. There are many new worlds and realms to explore, which are still alien to current society; deeper mysteries will always threaten the simple and the ingenuous. The aim is to find a way to represent these for the modern audience. I bypass political correctness, cliché or convention, to get to the heart of the matter — to intrigue or make a statement. My art opens doors, for people who dare to go through them, into a weird and seductive wonderland that is still connected to, or a representation of, reality. You express an adulation of the female form in your work. What is it about women, physically and psychologically, that inspires you? I like to feel that my art characterises the female spirit. It relates to how the female identity expresses itself within the parameters of her society. A woman can be sensitive, intense, sententious, and beautiful — she is a daughter, sister or a mother. There are a plethora of inspiring women out 18 | August 2011 | woman this month 8POEFSMBOE " 8JOEPX JOUP /BUBTIB #JSE UBMLT UP BSUJTU BOE EJHJUBM EFTJHOFS "LNBM 4IBVLBU BCPVU USBOTDFOEJOH DPOWFOUJPO JHOPSJOH QPMJUJDBM DPSSFDUOFTT BOE BSU UIBU EFMWFT EFFQ CFOFBUI UIF TVSGBDF there, making a difference in the world, and a difference to the people in their lives. I find women intensely inspiring, whether they do extraordinary things, such as change the community or alter the shape of the world, or not. Women are inspiring in their everyday lives; as mothers and best friends, for their spirit and passion. In relation to my art, I see my ideal woman as someone who has a niche image that can only be appreciated by those people who are able to discover the most unique side in all things. She is a modern icon full of strength. What do you think it is about the use of taboo in art that makes it so appealing for you as an artist? Anything can be considered art if someone says it is. The same rule goes for taboo; anything can be offensive if someone says it is. Sensitive issues; sensitive to whom, sensitive within what historical time period? Raising these kinds of questions is an artist’s prerogative. Art is about revealing something to the viewer that he or she doesn’t see every day. Do you think art can change a country’s sense or a people’s sense of what is ‘appropriate’ for public consumption? Art and advertising can always change a country’s perception of what is fashionable, trendy, indispensable, or even what is appropriate, respectful, or taboo. To an extent, you always need to respect each society’s ideas about what is appropriate or correct; but, you do have to know when to challenge these too. When it comes to my art, I don’t want to limit my creativity. I always reflect my subjects within their particular society; I don’t aim to limit myself to convention, I don’t choose a context based on its appropriateness. Do you think that your Arab origins have in any way informed your work, even if it is in a sense of consciously rejecting old traditions? My ethnicity has definitely inspired my work. If I was to reject my origins, how could I be in a position to observe and analyse other people’s cultures, traditions and societies? You call some of your art, digital illustrations. How have you embraced modern technology? My designs are defined by their use of mixed media and digitisation. I draw, paint, take digital pictures, glue and paste first. After this I scan the pieces in and I compose, play, create and inform them on a computer. I love modern technology; it excites me. It speaks to the modern viewer and consumer. To what extent do you think that art has had to adapt to an increasingly online population? I think the online community is the way forward. The social network community has grown incredibly rapidly; providing access to information at the touch of a button. It would be silly if “art” didn’t adapt to the demands and needs of the online population. The digital form of my art has made it more accessible. People can experience it all over the world. I have created it knowing that people will see it on a screen, so the impact doesn’t attenuate depending on the environment you view it in. You have been involved with the artwork for some Italian fashion houses. Tell us a little bit about your fashion and art direction: Fashion, particularly influenced by the media, sets a standard, which society tends to follow. My work is an attempt to understand emotions and moods and the closest object I can find that can relate and narrate my expression of moods and emotions is the female form. I found that there was a demand for my work within the field of fashion; hence I catered for this demand. www.akmalshaukat.com I just have to say that I really loved artist Akmal Shaukat’s digital designs. I think it is really cool that he has found such an interesting way to use modern technology for artistic purposes. His art is fresh and interesting and definitely unique. It is also really great that he is so inspired by women. I know that artists throughout history have idolised the female body in their paintings, but I think Akmal has found a way to make the women in his pictures say something. His subjects are quirky and different and each has something more to offer than just a pretty figure. I hope that we see more and more of this sort of thing in the years to come. Lucy, by email WRITE IN AND WIN Send your letter to editor@womanthismonth. com, by fax to 17 813-700 or by post to PO Box 20461, Manama. The star letter will receive 100BD worth of amazing makeup and cosmetics from the brand Gosh, courtesy of the J.H Ruyan Co. Give yourself a dazzling makeover this October! Write Here Write Now 17 woman this month | September 2011 | *OUFSWJFX .arietta Dias has dedicated her life in Bahrain to protecting the rights — sometimes the most basic, human rights that the rest of us take for granted — of migrant workers in the Kingdom. Her passion for Bahrain is as potent as that of its most avid supporters, but this has not prevented her from recognising some of its failings. Although she accepts that many of the agents, employers and host families responsible for migrant workers in the region are fair and just, there is, nonetheless, widespread and systematic abuse of the system. Regardless of whether these abuses rest in the hands of hundreds, or just a few, they need to be addressed, put right and, in the long-term, prevented from occurring. In her 50 years in the region she has seen some dramatic improvements, but the fight is by no means over, she says as she speaks to Woman This Month. Why set up the Migrant Workers Protection Society? To create a voice for people who often don’t get heard. It is a strong voice for the labourers and domestic workers who are brought over to Bahrain, often leaving their families behind, in order to do the tasks that we can’t find anyone else to do. The main thing we are trying to create awareness about is that domestic workers don’t come under the labour laws. There is some suggestion that, as they are considered to be part of a family, they should be treated as such. It's also very difficult to monitor what goes on behind four walls. However, this leads to frequent abuse — and we do call it abuse. The main abuses that we see are non-payment or irregular payment of salary; sometimes these workers can go for months on end without getting paid. Added to this is physical, emotional and sometimes sexual abuse, but the main problem is overwork. If you look at some of the agreements set up by manpower agents you will see the clause: “Working hours unlimited”. This is unacceptable! We cannot have this sort of thing being regularly written into contracts. People need off time to survive; it’s something the rest of us absolutely take for granted. You have expressed the necessity of publicising individual stories — to put personal faces on the situation. Do you have any case studies you could elaborate on? We have so many awful cases. Right now we have an Ethiopian lady, who has been with her employer for over two years and nine months. She is owed months and months of salary and she was systematically physically abused by every member of the family. We went to the hospital in Salmaniya, to try and get at least one of her many, extensive injuries treated, and it turns out that she has actually lost her sight in one eye, because of the trauma she has experienced. In spite of all this, we have been told that she doesn’t have a case and she must board a plane and return home to Ethiopia. The sponsor has gone ahead and cancelled her visa, so she only has one month to sort everything out. It is very frustrating, but we are not willing to let this happen. Has this turned into a full-time job for you? Yes it has. Everybody at the MWPS works on a voluntary basis. We only have two permanent staff — the caretaker in our shelter and a driver. But the work is never ending. Most days we leave for ‘work’ between 8am to 9am and we don’t get back until quite late in the evening. We move between police stations, immigration offices, ministries and embassies; often we have to visit the Isa Town detention centre or the jail, and the hospital because some of the maids need very urgent medical treatment. Trying to do all this with very limited volunteers becomes a big juggling act. It is very much worth it though; at the end of the day we go to bed with a satisfied feeling. Tell us about your women’s shelter: This was one of the first shelters to be opened in Bahrain. Of course, the Philippine embassy always had a shelter, but I can’t think of any other independent ones. Well over 600 women have passed through our shelter. At any time we have around nine or 10 women of varied nationalities. Often the police, or a neighbour, call us regarding something they have witnessed; or the women are picked up after having run away. Frequently, they do not even know where their house is, so they struggle to take us back to it or to point it out, because they have never seen beyond its four walls. We have spent many afternoons driving around with a young woman, hoping that she might recognise something, anything that could suggest where she has been living for the past while. Once in our shelter, though, they are well taken care of; there is food to eat, 24-hour television in different languages and their friends are allowed to visit them regularly. What do you think needs to change in order to improve the situation? This has been my main focus for many years, and I have seen some real leaps forward. Some of the embassies have been particularly proactive and the government is beginning to cooperate and work with us to help our plight. There is a whole mindset that needs to change, though. The penal system needs to change; sometimes, even if domestic employees work up the courage to go to the police station, some of the stations just send them back to the sponsor. All authorities need to be on the same page. They have to understand that the worker has the right to complain and also the right not to go back to a house where they think they have been abused, until the justice system has ruled. Bahrain was the first country to bring out a people anti-trafficking law, in 2008. The problem, though, is that we are not seeing many real prosecutions; too much is still hidden from view. People assume that trafficking just refers to prostitution, but it doesn’t. Most women that we are dealing with have been trafficked; it is the difference between someone going into employment of their own free will and receiving all their rights, and slavery. Many of these women are being treated as slaves, and many employers and host families naturally assume that they have the right to do this. This is the mindset that needs to change across the Kingdom. What are the main components in bringing about change? Implementation of the law! The labour ministry needs to be given more power to sort these situations out. Secondly, we need domestic workers to come under the labour laws. Thirdly, manpower agencies need to be brought under some control by the government — we need checks and regulations. Our main concern, however, is always to raise more awareness; nothing will ever change if people don’t know what is going on. 16 | August 2011 | woman this month 4MBWFSZ 6ONBTLJOH .PEFSO .BSJFUUB %JBT GPVOEJOH NFNCFS PG UIF .JHSBOU 8PSLFST 1SPUFDUJPO 4PDJFUZ IBT SFDFOUMZ CFFO BQQPJOUFE BT JUT DIBJSXPNBO 0WFS UIF ZFBST TIF IBT EPOF TPNF BNB[JOH UIJOHT GPS UIF MJWFT BOE XFMGBSF PG MBCPVSFST BOE EPNFTUJD TUBGG JO #BISBJO #VU UIFSF JT TUJMM B MPOH XBZ UP HP BT /BUBTIB #JSE EJTDPWFST Weight Obsessive I have struggled with an eating disorder for my whole life. It started when I was really young, only 12 years old. A lot of people don’t realise that eating disorders can be genetic. It is rare that someone chooses to get one and they can be so destructive to your life. I don’t believe that, if you have had one, it ever really goes away. It is a demon that will always come back to haunt you. There is no cure. It was good to read the article about bulimia in the September issue of the magazine, because more people need to know about these issues and how to spot them in other people. If you leave an eating disorder untreated or unnoticed it can get to the stage where people are hospitalised or worse. I hope that more people learn about bulimia and anorexia, because then they will not be so casual in their approach to it. I can’t believe that some people would think it was fashionable to have an eating disorder. This just sends out completely the wrong message. Hind, by email. 54 | September 2011 | woman this month $BNQBJHO 55 woman this month | September 2011 | .ade fashionable by the likes of Princess Diana, Jane Fonda and Paula Abdul, bulimia literally means ‘hunger of the ox’ — referring to the large amounts of food that a person consumes during a binging episode. Later on, when shame, guilt and self-condemnation set in, bulimic people try to ‘purge’ themselves by inducing vomiting or using laxatives and diuretics. Many feel that this is an effective way of avoiding the calories and undoing the session of overeating. Recent research suggests that bulimia is more common than you might think — as many as eight per cent of adult females suffer from it, and as many as five per cent of female students. Although the condition can develop at any time in a person’s life, the average age of onset is between 18 and 19 years. Experts also suggest that when there is a close relative or friend suffering from bulimia, then the people around them become four times more likely to develop the condition themselves. &NPUJPOBM EJTUSFTT Bulimia might present itself as a disorder affecting the way someone consumes food, but the compulsive eating and purging process is merely a symptom of something much deeper. Beneath the hunger cravings lie deep-seated, confusing emotional and psychological problems, believes cognitive behavioural therapist, Sharon Gorman. “Dysfunctional relationships within families, within a marriage or a partnership can be a trigger for bulimia nervosa, as can stressful life events, such as the loss of a relationship, a job, bullying and bereavement,” says Sharon, who is managing director of therapeutic services at Crisec Consultants. Low self-esteem, feelings of helplessness and worthlessness, perfectionism, depression, anxiety and obsessive-compulsive disorder are all personality traits associated with bulimia. The pressure to be skinny and fashionable can also lead young people to start dieting, as they believe it will make them happy and successful and attract acceptance. 4MBWFSZ "EEJDUFE UP GPPE BOE ZFU PCTFTTFE CZ ZPVS CPEZ XFJHIU *G ZPV DBOOPU DPOUSPM ZPVS DSBWJOHT CVU GFFM HVJMU QBOHT BGUFS FWFSZ CJOHF JU NJHIU CF B HPPE JEFB UP TFFL QSPGFTTJPOBM IFMQ &BUJOH UP -JWF -JWF 'VUJMF BOE JOFGGFDUJWF Interestingly, bulimics are deluding themselves when they think they can lose all the calories by purging themselves. “The body is extremely smart, you cannot cheat it so easily,” says Julie Abillamaa, senior dietician at Health Watchers Bahrain diet clinic. When you vomit, you only lose up to 50 per cent of the calories ingested, because the body starts absorbing the calories sooner than you think. A binging session can mean consuming over 3,000 to 5,000 calories. “You cannot possibly lose this by vomiting,” she says. “Moreover, the use of laxatives is futile as this will only cause about 10 per cent of calories to be expelled, while diuretics do not purge any calories at all.” Over-exercise is equally pointless, as the body does not respond well to prolonged exercise sessions and can become immune to it. “It is like under-eating; when you eat very little, your metabolism rate slows down and the body burns less calories,” observes Julie. 5FMMUBMF TJHOT It’s difficult to spot a bulimic; they tend to be very secretive about their binging sessions and most of them have either normal weight or are slightly overweight. However, some warning signs include yellowing teeth and cavities, bruises on the fingers or hands from frequently scraping against the teeth, together with hair loss, bad breath, dry skin and flaked nails. Behavioural signs include obsession with body weight, health food and diets, picking at food in public, a preference to eat in private, using the washroom immediately after meals, mood swings, panic attacks, over-exercise and changes in bowel movement. Bulimia is a very debilitating condition that can have extremely serious consequences in the long-term. An electrolyte imbalance builds up in the body, with a depletion of vitamins and minerals, leading to dehydration and kidney problems. The loss of potassium is especially harmful as it can affect the heart and even cause death! 0WFSDPNJOH CVMJNJB Bulimia nervosa is a psychological condition that results in severe physical imbalances; to overcome both one needs the help of professionals. The first step towards dealing with this disorder is to break the silence and confide in a friend or family member. “Family is a big help; no therapy can help unless the family is around, is listening and is supportive,” says Julie. According to her, the chances of falling off the wagon are far less if bulimics feel that they can involve their friends or family members without suffering derision and criticism. They desperately need emotional support and understanding. Food, in the mind of a bulimic, is a source of shame as well as satisfaction. Psychiatrists and therapists treat bulimia by delving into the minds of their patients and finding out why they feel the way they do about food and what food means to them. Various therapeutic approaches are used to treat the disorder, including cognitive behavioural therapy. This is a kind of psychotherapy, during which an individual has regular discussions about their thinking, is one of the only ways of getting to the root of the problem. There is no quick cure. Progress and development can only occur gradually, exploring the issues that are often deep beneath the surface. “Discussions help a client explore and recognise their negative thought patterns, along with their reasons for their unhealthy relationship with food. It supports people through a journey of self-discovery and selfacceptance and can help them realise that they are worthy of love and connection,” says Sharon. While it is very difficult to break the ‘binge and purge cycle’, it is possible to treat bulimia completely, but it is not easy. Often the disease will stay with someone throughout their life. Research suggests that while around 50 per cent of sufferers can be clear of the condition ten years after its commencement, around 30 per cent will only partially recover and the remaining 20 per cent will still have the symptoms. To gain control over the physical symptoms, a harsh diet is not the way to go. “A harsh diet is never recommended,” notes Julie. “We need to stabilise the body weight and restore the normal eating behaviour of the person. This includes eating three square meals and two snacks a day to break the binge and purge cycle.” If someone you know has an eating disorder, then try to understand that it can be very difficult for them to own up to it, or acknowledge that they are in trouble. Plenty of reassurance and support can help a person suffering from bulimia move towards making the life-changing decision to get professional help. “Help is available, so please be brave and ask for it. The first step to recovery is the willingness to tell somebody what is happening to you,” says Sharon. For more information, call 66 344-470 (Crisec Consultants) or visit www. healthwatchersbahrain.com.

7 woman this month | October 2011 | Social Butterfly AWA 37th Birthday Celebration The 37th birthday of the American Women’s Association (AWA) was celebrated at the Riffa Views Golf Club recently. President Tosin Arowojolu welcomed the members after the summer break and introduced the incoming board. The US Embassy Charge d’Affaires, Stephanie Williams was the guest speaker. Festive decorations and a birthday cake added to the ambiance of the fun-filled morning Seana, Lizzy, Lisa & Susie Beverley & Herma Tosin & Adriana Nadia, Jacqueline & Irina Liliane, Lynne, Rahma, Bana & Jacky Laila ,

8 | October 2011 | woman this month Interview Dirtiest Word The Natasha Bird talks to Dr. Margot Badran about the theory behind Islamic Feminism and why the words spark alarm in even some of the most forward-thinking among the Muslim population.

9 woman this month | October 2011 | "Feminism” has become a dirty word. It shouldn’t have and it’s bizarre that it has, but it has. So, what is it about this particular term for female equality that makes it stick in people’s throats? It isn’t just that men see it as a label for the disruption to their status quo, because there are many, educated women who also recoil at its mention. In some parts of the world, the word has been hijacked by minority groups who have used it as an excuse for extreme behaviour. It has become identifiable with bra-burning and man-hating, which is a shame because these things have nothing to do with the original tenets of feminism. In this part of the world, though, the stigma attached to the term possibly has more to do with the fact that it is seen as a Western term, or a Western phenomenon. Wrong again. One of the most interesting things that I gleaned from my conversation with Dr. Margot Badran was that feminism, as a term and a concept, developed fairly simultaneously in the East and the West. It seems, then, that this association with the West may just be another method, contrived by opponents of the feminist cause, for putting women off the push for equality. It might seem odd to solicit the opinions of an American on the subject of Islam, but it would be imprudent to let her nationality cloud your reading. Dr. Badran is more than qualified to talk about such subjects. She is an academic, lecturer and author, whose career has centred on gender and feminism. She has spoken globally, held many fellowships, won a plethora of awards, helped set up the women’s studies programme at the University of Sana in Yemen and has written on women and gender for the Al-Ahram weekly in Cairo. More than this, though, she has made it her life’s work to study the role of women in the Muslim world and has dedicated herself to reading, understanding and discussing the teachings of the Qur’an. According to Dr. Badran, “feminism” appears as a word in the late 19th century, but it doesn’t actually enter the English vocabulary until the next century. Interestingly, it appears to develop in both the United States and Egypt at roughly the same time. So, to call it a singularly Western phenomenon is inappropriate. In fact, in Egypt it emerges in the context of the rise of Islamic modernism and as part of the anti-colonial struggle, which argued against the inequalities of Western colonisation. Badran points out that: “certain patriarchal forces or conservative groups know that if they want to suppress a movement in the Middle East, the most effective way to do it is to label it Western, as something that is beyond Islam and a threat to the culture. This is a pernicious manipulation, but it has such power that people buy it”. “It is a contentious word, but use it, to uphold the value of it, because if even I won’t, then who is going to?”. It seems glaringly obvious to me and to Dr. Badran, that the more time one spends denigrating the word, the less time we will spend concentrating on its meaning — social justice and equality. Because this is exactly what Islamic feminism refers to, in its most basic sense. “It is an articulation of the idea of the equality of all human beings. What makes it Islamic feminism is that this understanding of social justice and gender equality is derived directly from reading the Qur’an. It is a feminist discourse that is grounded in interpretation of the Qur’an and also the Hadith”, says Dr. Badran. The Qur’an is extremely complex. To suggest that it is not open to interpretation is to ignore its depth and value. As Dr. Badran points out, “You could choose to read into it some degree of inequality. For example, the Qur’an mentions polygamy. Marrying up to four wives is technically allowed”, so it might appear to condone the practise. However, “the conditions are so stringent that if you actually followed them, you’d find it very difficult to actually practice it”. In the society in which the Qur’an was revealed, polygamy was rampant. So, according to Dr. Badran, the Qur’an is less concerned with excusing the practice and more with trying to contain it. “The Qur’an contains a message of human equality and justice and encourages working toward the implementation of these ideals in the real world, but many people get stuck on what is permissible, rather than on aiming to live out these higher ideals or principles”. Knowing the context in which the Qur’an was conceived, asserts Dr. Badran, will help you to understand it as a more egalitarian document. And it is this egalitarian interpretation which fuels Islamic feminism. If you ask me, now is the perfect time to get over any disdain for the terms and to discuss the principles. In Bahrain, more and more women are finding their public voice and asserting their right to be heard. Now, more than ever, we can see that ideas about women circulated by conservatives — such as the idea that a woman’s place is solely in the home — are problematic. Women are not a singular, homogeneous group. We are each unique and must be allowed to act so. Dr. Badran suggests that, quite apart from letting the term “feminism” intimidate or bother us, the best thing we can do is use it and talk about it. “We need discourse to help us clarify, realign and legitimise our thinking. If people are going to use religion to tell you what to do, you need to be clear about your own understanding and the justification for it. Islamic feminists are able to say, “excuse me, no I don’t have to do what you say, and this is why, according to the Qur’an’”. Even if it is structural changes that need to take place in order for women to have equal rights to men, it is study, discussion and greater understanding that will facilitate the movement to make these changes happen. For example, the famous revision of the family law, in Morocco in 2004, making men and women equal heads of the family, came about after many forces, including well-versed feminists, campaigned for its modification. Having spoken to Dr. Badran, it seems that to suggest, as many do, that women already receive equal rights, is misguided. It is also unfair to suggest that the rights that women do not receive are not afforded to them by the Qur’an. There is still a long way to go before women can enjoy gender equality and social justice. We are lucky enough to live in a country which permits female academia and allows women a public voice, so it is about time that more of us started using it. It is abundantly clear that, of all the words we should seek to outlaw, “feminism” isn’t one of them. It is a concept that has been with us for years, in word, and for centuries, in practise. It is the term for our freedom, the term for our rights and our equality. Most of your day-to-day practices, including reading this magazine, wouldn’t be available to you without it. Even if you find the word irritating, it is silly to use that as an excuse not to talk about female rights. A word is a word, but injustice is all-consuming. We need discourse to help us clarify, realign and legitimise our thinking. If people are going to use religion to tell you what to do, you need to be clear about your own understanding and the justification for it.

10 | October 2011 | woman this month Fashion Autumn Winter 2011 Once again Woman This Month is offering you a definitive guide to the Autumn/Winter season. We’re steering you through six of the most influential trends, with a look at some of the best items available and tips for how to wear them. We’ve also thrown in some hair and beauty advice. What more could you want? Keep it SHARP Keep it SMART Keep it CHIC 11 Feature Prints: Bold, stand-out and colourful 15 Fetish Fantasy: A peek at the darkness within 19 Country Walks: Tweed, plaid and a hardy flat-cap 23 Arresting Androgyny: Women make tailoring their own 27 Dreamy Victoriana: An antidote to androgyny and fetish 31 Fabulous Fur: Rich, luxurious and warm 36 Celebrity Fashion: Trend setting stars show us their worth The Trends

11 woman this month | October 2011 | Feature Prints CAROLINA HERRERA Bold and beautiful prints are back on top this season, but there are more than just the florals to tickle your fancy. Bows, lobsters, dogs, horses — you name it, we’ve found it! Feature Prints

12 | October 2011 | woman this month Unusual Fashion Prints are back with a bang, but don’t be too quick to pull out your old Diane Von Furstenberg printed wrap dresses or your floral scarves. This season, the prints are taking on new and unusual forms — dogs, cats, bows, fish, art-deco flowers and architectural geometrics are among the many new designs These prints are a beacon, a conversation starter and the main feature of an outfit, rather than simply an embellishment. Miu Miu started it all with the famous swallows of last year, but it seems that a tidal wave of other designers have soon followed suit. Erdem, Holly Fulton and Charlotte Taylor have all climbed aboard, and even Missoni has swapped the usual zig zags for more attention grabbing designs. Mix them, clash them, or wear the same print head-to-toe, but don’t be shy about it! These feature prints are not for the faint of heart. and Striking HOLLY FULTON SUNO STELLA McCARTNEY MARY KATRANTZOU MANISH ARORA MIU MIU MISSONI FERGIE LADY GAGA CELEBRITY TRENDSETTER BUSY PHILLIPPS

13 woman this month | October 2011 | Feature Prints 1. The great thing about this trend is that there are hardly any rules. You can clash, you can mix and match or you can wear one print all over. Just give it some attitude and you’ll be fine. 2. Remember, the print is the feature. Show it off and don’t clutter the look with pointless accessories or wild, untamed hair. 3. Stick to the brighter colours. It might be Autumn, but that’s no excuse for looking drab and dreary. Tangerine is still the colour of choice, but other, jewel-toned hues are also doing the rounds. Stand out, go on, we dare you! We love a good pair of highwaisted shorts — especially ones covered in hundreds of tiny horses! What more could you want?! First Sight Kenzo tries a new, bolder take on floral. Going Dotty MICRO TREND HOW TO WEAR One of the big variations on the feature print is the large dot. Stella McCartney’s spotty designs are everywhere, as are those of Marc Jacobs. Morning, noon or night — any time is polka-dot time! BOOHOO.COM PENNEYS MARC JACOBS AT NET-A-PORTER DIANE VON FURSTENBERG AT NET-A-PORTER Love at Pick Editor's KENZO FEVER DEBENHAMS

14 | October 2011 | woman this month Fashion Feature PrintsMix EMILIO PUCCI MONSOON HOLLY FULTON VIYELLA INTERNACIONALE H&M JUICY COUTURE CHARLOTTE TAYLOR BANANA REPUBLIC So many great prints to choose from! Here are our picks: Beauty Tip: As jewel-tones are in, go for a striking pink lip to complement your print. Match

15 woman this month | October 2011 | Fetish Fantasy DAVID ANDERSEN Whips and chokers, leather and lace, this season’s naughtiest trend looks deep into the secret darkness of human fantasy. Fishnet tights are enjoying a brilliant renaissance! Fetish Fantasy

Wilfully 16 | October 2011 | woman this month Wicked Fashion Autumn/Winter 2011 will celebrate a rise in the risqué. Just owning a biker jacket is not enough — this season’s garments are replete with leather straps, mesh inserts, cut-out panels, lots of lace, some studs and a whole lot of naughty lash-batting. Drawing on human bondage and S&M fantasies, these fetishistic clothes are not suitable for your day-time tea party, or lunch with the in-laws. These outfits are strictly post-watershed — conceptualised as an after dark world of costumes, feathers, masks and mystery. Sarah Burton’s latest collection for Alexander McQueen is this trend incarnate, while Versus, Dolce & Gabbana and even Top Shop Unique all make use of leather straps, corsetry and ribbon lattices. In terms of colour, black enjoyed an overwhelming runway domination, but don’t be afraid to add in some greys and metallics for good measure. MARK FAST MARCHESA CIARA KRISTEN BELL KELLY ROWLAND ALEXANDER McQUEEN DIESEL BLACK GOLD COMME DES GARCONS TOPSHOP UNIQUE EMILIO PUCCI CELEBRITY TRENDSETTER

17 woman this month | October 2011 | Fetish Fantasy 1. Black is the colour of choice, so keep this as your base colour. If you feel like you need a colour injection, go for blood red, or something unusual like deep amber. 2. As this trend is built on the idea of dominatrix-culture, you can afford a harsher finish. Scrape back your hair into a high, tight ponytail, for example. 3. Now this is a trend which isn’t shy about accessorising. Embellished chokers are the necklace of choice, but thick, wrought metal cuffs will also impress. Anything with chainmail, studs and lace will also work well. This Erickson Beaumon Venetian-inspired mask is a real treat. It plays into all the right themes of fantasy and intrigue and is studded with beautiful gems, making it naughty, but extremely nice! First Sight HOW TO WEAR The runways were awash with chokers this season. There were some amazingly detailed varieties from the likes of Julien Macdonald, with chunkier styles from Tory Burch, Emanuel Ungaro and Max Azira. Pick Editor's Love at Chunky Chokers MICRO TREND Make a statement in a cut-out dress. NEW LOOK ERICKSON BEAUMON MICHEAL KORS MICHEAL KORS SALVATORE FERRAGAMOS LANVIN

18 | October 2011 | woman this month Fashion Fetish Fantasy Match Mix Beauty Tip: Make like Lady Gaga and go for talons instead of your usual rounded nails. Don’t whip yourself into a frenzy trying to find the best buys, we’ve done the hard work for you. LIPSY PILOT HOBBS DIOR GAP MARISOTA NINA RICCI JIMMY CHOO

19 woman this month | October 2011 | Country Walks DIOR Deer-stalkers and tweed, canes and brollies, this Autumn it’s time to brave the leafy countryside and partake in a good hearty ramble. And who says you can’t look chic whilst doing it? Country Walks

Hearty Stroll A 20 | October 2011 | woman this month Fashion This is a reworking of last year’s English heritage trend. Some of the same themes still apply — midi skirts in tough fabrics, such as wool and gabardine, are still a staple, as are tweed jackets and visible, beige socks. This season, though, the look is slightly tougher. There is more of a sense of needing the clothes to perform a function — to protect against the cold and the clawing branches of trees and bracken. So, lace up your boots, belt up your coats and tuck your hair into a felt hat, because you’re about to embark on a vigorous amble through the countryside. Some familiar names appear on the Country Walks register — Margaret Howell and Burberry have re-envisaged their wax jackets, trench-coats and lace-up boots, but many other designers have hopped on the bandwagon. Lacoste have swapped their usual sporty style for knitwear and Hermes has traded in clean lines and simplicity for thick plaids and layers. EMMA WATSON OLIVIA PALERMRO kenzo HERMES LACOSTE ALEXA CHUNG CELEBRITY TRENDSETTER KENZO MARC BY MARC JACOBS BURBERRY PRORSUM WOOD WOOD

21 woman this month | October 2011 | Country Walks 1. This is a look for the rugged outdoors, not a soiree at an art gallery. As such, too many accessories will be frowned upon for their glaring impracticality. If you want to wear a necklace, make it an heirloom and if you want earrings, pick pearl studs. 2. Belt up! Whether you are securing a cable knit cardigan or tying on a wax overcoat, you’ll want something to nip you in around the middle. Layering doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice the appearance of your female figure. 3. Beware of thin heels. Anything that looks like it might get stuck in the mud is a big no no. This La Redoute military style jacket is really special. The thick wool makes it allweather, while the lined seams and nipped in waist mean that it is infinitely flattering. First Sight Felt hats with wide brims are a real must Piles of Plaid MICRO TREND HOW TO WEAR MacDonald, Houndstooth and Prince of Wales — plaids and tartans were all over the runways. And don’t be afraid to mix them up and pile them on, the more the merrier! Love at Pick Editor's GAP HOSS INTROPIA NEXT ASOS SALVATORRE FERRAGAMO CAMAIEU LA REDOUTE

22 | October 2011 | woman this month Fashion Country WalksMix Flat caps and plaid skirts, here are some of the essentials for the Country Walks ensemble. Beauty Tip: Try some cheek tint fluid, for that rosy outdoors look. Match KENZO PHASE EIGHT CAROLINA HERRERA URBAN OUTFITTERS REPUBLIC LOUIS VUITTON MASSIMO DUTTI NEXT

23 woman this month | October 2011 | celine Fashion loves to keep people guessing. This season’s androgynous trend sees women reclaiming suiting and tailoring from the boys and making it their own. There’s not a curve in sight! Arresting Androgyny Arresting Androgyny

handsome? 24 | October 2011 | woman this month Fashion Our concepts of gender are constantly being developed. This season, certain designers have decided to add to the discussion by giving male/female roles a shake-up. Transsexual model Lea T has enjoyed a super-sonic rise to fame, becoming the face of an increasingly notorious Givenchy campaign. Added to this is the popularity of cross-dressing Andrej Pejic on the runways. His svelte physique and elfin looks blend easily with those of his female counterparts, lending shows an extra degree of intrigue and mystique. Just as some men are now able to mingle freely with the women in the fashion world, so women are now reclaiming certain typically masculine styles. Suiting, crisp white shirts, tuxedos, silk ties and cummerbunds — traditionally the black-tie uniform of those with a Y chromosome — were seen on female models all over the world. More casual looks included super-sized, boxy blazers, slouchy cut t-shirts and large overcoats. CAROlINA HeRrERA Isn’t she ralph lauren balmain moschino nicole farhi chloe alexander wang anna paquin diane kruger elizabeth olsen CELEBRITY TRENDSETTER

25 woman this month | October 2011 | If a briefcase is a bridge too far, try a boxy tote. Arresting Androgyny 1. This isn’t a trend for lingerie models and playboy bunnies. The whole point of androgyny is to generate some intrigue surrounding the issue of gender. So don’t think you can just throw a blazer over a body-con dress and be done with it. 2. If monochrome gives you a headache, there is scope for adding in a dash of colour. Red has been a feature on many runways. Accent your outfit with a pair of red shoes or a red lip. 3. If a tuxedo is too smart, give the casual version a whirl by throwing on an oversized cardigan and some peg-legged trousers. Loafers and brogues are going to be a staple this season, and there are some deliciously different ones for you to choose between. Tod’s have a great selection, some with cool detailed panels. First Sight Bows and Collars MICRO TREND HOW TO WEAR Love at Pick Editor's marc jacobs tod's The shirt is back with some real force, but that’s no excuse to pick something plain. This season the shirts have interesting embellishments around the neck. Whether it’s a pussybow or a bow-tie — make it quirky and unique. hobbs Penneys next warehouse

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